For the first time, I am attempting to use replacement supports on a steel roller coaster ( a small one). It was recommended to me that I use Moby's Steel Jungle. I have watched a few tutorials on line. And I will be downloading a few of the coasters from this site as guide a only.

Are the supports suppose to touch the tracks?
I don't understand the support use for the station section of the roller coaster.
How far a part do you place the supports? Is there a standard distance?
Can someone recommend (and share the link) to a good tutorial for these supports?

Those are the questions I have for now. Thanks in advance for your help.

Yes, the whole reason for supports on a roller coaster are to hold it in the air. If they didn't touch, what good would they be? Instead of directly connecting them, use another custom scenery pack called CoasterJoe's B&M Connectors (Link) to place between the support and the track. It makes it easier to connect and makes it more realistic.

For stations, you should try to use a custom tracked ride, or CTR. Usually with these, the station track pieces will look like block brakes, without the loading platforms. If you use these, you can create custom stations that look a ton better. I've created a tutorial and also a pack of station templates that you can use.

Tutorial - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hMk0WL5X3Q
Station Pack - http://rctgo.com/downloads/view/4578

To see how far apart to put the supports, refer to real-life images of roller coasters. I usually do 3.5 to 4 tiles apart, but it also helps to imagine your ride is a miniature model that you would build on a table. Lay out the supports in your head that are spread out as much as you can without it wobbling or even falling over. If that doesn't help, just place them however it looks right.

For a tutorial, try looking up Silvarett's YouTube channel. But it's actually some pretty simple basic rules. Start out with each support as a single vertical column. If it's really tall, try adding a diagonal to make it a V-frame (1 diagonal 1 vertical). If there is track in the way, you can change the slopes, or change it to 2 verticles. Note: For lift hills, I usually use 2 verticals, you can also add a horizontal to make it an A-frame. Shorter supports don't need re-inforcements, unless they are on a low-to-the-ground sharp turn. In that case make them all tiny little V-frames. Also don't be afraid to tilt the supports a little. Not all of them are 90 degrees straight down. For special elements, such as loops and corkscrews, use the pictures below. In the pictures I'll show you examples of all the support types I mentioned respectively.

V-frame (2 diagonals):



V-frame (1 diagonal 1 vertical, with exception of the first support)



Low-ground turn:



Angled/tilted support:



Loop:



Corkscrew (Tripod support)



Zero-G roll:



For other references, try Wikipedia and Google images. I have shown mostly B&M style roller coasters, I assume that is what you are asking for. Enjoy!

Thanks BLU, a lot of helpful info. Appreciated. I've read your suggestions and now I have a better idea on how to get started.

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Yes, the whole reason for supports on a roller coaster are to hold it in the air. If they didn't touch, what good would they be? Instead of directly connecting them, use another custom scenery pack called CoasterJoe's B&M Connectors (Link) to place between the support and the track. It makes it easier to connect and makes it more realistic.

For stations, you should try to use a custom tracked ride, or CTR. Usually with these, the station track pieces will look like block brakes, without the loading platforms. If you use these, you can create custom stations that look a ton better. I've created a tutorial and also a pack of station templates that you can use.

Tutorial - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hMk0WL5X3Q
Station Pack - http://rctgo.com/downloads/view/4578

To see how far apart to put the supports, refer to real-life images of roller coasters. I usually do 3.5 to 4 tiles apart, but it also helps to imagine your ride is a miniature model that you would build on a table. Lay out the supports in your head that are spread out as much as you can without it wobbling or even falling over. If that doesn't help, just place them however it looks right.

For a tutorial, try looking up Silvarett's YouTube channel. But it's actually some pretty simple basic rules. Start out with each support as a single vertical column. If it's really tall, try adding a diagonal to make it a V-frame (1 diagonal 1 vertical). If there is track in the way, you can change the slopes, or change it to 2 verticles. Note: For lift hills, I usually use 2 verticals, you can also add a horizontal to make it an A-frame. Shorter supports don't need re-inforcements, unless they are on a low-to-the-ground sharp turn. In that case make them all tiny little V-frames. Also don't be afraid to tilt the supports a little. Not all of them are 90 degrees straight down. For special elements, such as loops and corkscrews, use the pictures below. In the pictures I'll show you examples of all the support types I mentioned respectively.

V-frame (2 diagonals):



V-frame (1 diagonal 1 vertical, with exception of the first support)



Low-ground turn:



Angled/tilted support:



Loop:



Corkscrew (Tripod support)



Zero-G roll:



For other references, try Wikipedia and Google images. I have shown mostly B&M style roller coasters, I assume that is what you are asking for. Enjoy!

I attempted to replace a few supports on a rc I made. I'm uploading the screenshot and not the track file yet. I wanted feedback to see if I was on the right track or not (no pun intended) (Corkscrew coaster from the game not a ctr).

A few more improvements to add:

-On the horizontal beams, don't make them stick out the ends. Lower them 1 level to make it smooth.
-Use flanges. Don't use too many. Remember, they should be about the distance apart of a long flatbed truck.
-These catwalks are a huge improvement over the ATH version. Try them out here.
-Add some more colors (Go to the paint bucket tool to recolor)
-Use invisible paths (Belgabor's Invisible Doodads, Make sure you install it correctly!)
-You accidentally deleted one of the station blocks.
-Try not to make the coaster run along the ground. You can't add supports if you do, and in real life it would wobble.
-When taking final screenshots, use the David Walsh cheat to clear the GUI (Cheat list)

I don't use Coasterfreak's Platforms anymore, because you can see a repetitive pattern in the concrete. Now I use Moby's Curved Walls and Floors (Link). Doesn't matter too much though.

Edit: Oh and if you don't mind redoing the supports, the support connectors are really useful. Try em' out!

A few more improvements to add:

-On the horizontal beams, don't make them stick out the ends. Lower them 1 level to make it smooth.
-Use flanges. Don't use too many. Remember, they should be about the distance apart of a long flatbed truck.
-These catwalks are a huge improvement over the ATH version. Try them out here.
-Add some more colors (Go to the paint bucket tool to recolor)
-Use invisible paths (Belgabor's Invisible Doodads, Make sure you install it correctly!)
-You accidentally deleted one of the station blocks.
-Try not to make the coaster run along the ground. You can't add supports if you do, and in real life it would wobble.
-When taking final screenshots, use the David Walsh cheat to clear the GUI (Cheat list)

I don't use Coasterfreak's Platforms anymore, because you can see a repetitive pattern in the concrete. Now I use Moby's Curved Walls and Floors (Link). Doesn't matter too much though.

Edit: Oh and if you don't mind redoing the supports, the support connectors are really useful. Try em' out!

Thanks for the feedback and the links. I'll try again, I can only improve with practice. Also, I did notice that with Coasterfreak's platform sets. I've had many problems installing the invisible cs. Any tips?

---

A few more improvements to add:

-On the horizontal beams, don't make them stick out the ends. Lower them 1 level to make it smooth.
-Use flanges. Don't use too many. Remember, they should be about the distance apart of a long flatbed truck.
-These catwalks are a huge improvement over the ATH version. Try them out here.
-Add some more colors (Go to the paint bucket tool to recolor)
-Use invisible paths (Belgabor's Invisible Doodads, Make sure you install it correctly!)
-You accidentally deleted one of the station blocks.
-Try not to make the coaster run along the ground. You can't add supports if you do, and in real life it would wobble.
-When taking final screenshots, use the David Walsh cheat to clear the GUI (Cheat list)

I don't use Coasterfreak's Platforms anymore, because you can see a repetitive pattern in the concrete. Now I use Moby's Curved Walls and Floors (Link). Doesn't matter too much though.

Edit: Oh and if you don't mind redoing the supports, the support connectors are really useful. Try em' out!

Thanks for the feedback and the links. I'll try again, I can only improve with practice. Also, I did notice that with Coasterfreak's platform sets. I've had many problems installing the invisible cs. Any tips?

I just saw the link for the tutorial for the invisible items. I've downloaded all of the cs from the links you provided. I'm just going to make a new rc with the new cs.

Okay, great! If you want a nice abundance of new CS packs, you can download my themed folder here:

http://www.mediafire.com/download/8h940b...Themed.zip

Make sure to save your game before opening a new set. A few of them don't wanna work and may crash your game! PS: It's going to take a VERY long time to download, extract, and copy, and will take up a significant amount of storage (1.28 GB).

Edit: Actually, I just realized that you are using a corkscrew track. Almost everything I told you is useless with that kind. Keep the station, but for the supports, use Safari J's Arrow Pack instead. For a guide, just look at normal corkscrew coasters in real life. Typically the lift hill uses scaffold/box supports, most of the track uses thick straight supports, close-ground sections use thinner B&M style supports, the end break run would use box supports as well, and the inversions you only have one option from the set. You'll only need this set and maybe GRP catwalks to complete the support job for this one.

Lift hill:



Low ground:



Normal:



Corkscrew (older ones usually use normal supports like in the picture above):



Loop (same thing goes for loops, older ones use traditional supports):





If you need me to clarify which types of tracks should use which support style, I can do that.

Okay, great! If you want a nice abundance of new CS packs, you can download my themed folder here:

http://www.mediafire.com/download/8h940b...Themed.zip

Make sure to save your game before opening a new set. A few of them don't wanna work and may crash your game! PS: It's going to take a VERY long time to download, extract, and copy, and will take up a significant amount of storage (1.28 GB).

Edit: Actually, I just realized that you are using a corkscrew track. Almost everything I told you is useless with that kind. Keep the station, but for the supports, use Safari J's Arrow Pack instead. For a guide, just look at normal corkscrew coasters in real life. Typically the lift hill uses scaffold/box supports, most of the track uses thick straight supports, close-ground sections use thinner B&M style supports, the end break run would use box supports as well, and the inversions you only have one option from the set. You'll only need this set and maybe GRP catwalks to complete the support job for this one.

Lift hill:



Low ground:



Normal:



Corkscrew (older ones usually use normal supports like in the picture above):



Loop (same thing goes for loops, older ones use traditional supports):





If you need me to clarify which types of tracks should use which support style, I can do that.

Yes, please clarify "which types of tracks should use which support style." I have downloaded a lot of cs, but I will check out your cs list. Are most of the rc in rct3 B&M tracks? For example, inverted, Junior, mini, etc. I also found your "best cs list". In addition, I have read the instructions 3 times for the invisible doodads, and it freezes my game every time. Nothing else seems to freeze the cs downloads I have, well so far. I will let you know how it goes after downloading your cs. I wanted to mention I have 427 GB free of 456 GB on my hard drive (i5) and 6 GB of memory, I love this laptop I have. So I think it should be enough to run your cs.

Thanks blu, that was really helpful. I be sure to look at this whenever I use supports from now on.

A few more improvements to add:

-On the horizontal beams, don't make them stick out the ends. Lower them 1 level to make it smooth.
-Use flanges. Don't use too many. Remember, they should be about the distance apart of a long flatbed truck.
-These catwalks are a huge improvement over the ATH version. Try them out here.
-Add some more colors (Go to the paint bucket tool to recolor)
-Use invisible paths (Belgabor's Invisible Doodads, Make sure you install it correctly!)
-You accidentally deleted one of the station blocks.
-Try not to make the coaster run along the ground. You can't add supports if you do, and in real life it would wobble.
-When taking final screenshots, use the David Walsh cheat to clear the GUI (Cheat list)

I don't use Coasterfreak's Platforms anymore, because you can see a repetitive pattern in the concrete. Now I use Moby's Curved Walls and Floors (Link). Doesn't matter too much though.

Edit: Oh and if you don't mind redoing the supports, the support connectors are really useful. Try em' out!

I have made a rc using DasMatze Eurofighter, is that a B&M? And what supports would I use with it?

ok what about beam support type cso supports any tutorials or suggestions on how when where to use those and how about custom wood supports?
good thread keep it going guys...Ex steelworx, girder and beams ,oh yeah those loop and corkscrew supports by spice that look like the st louis arch
anyone else clueless on what to do with these any suggestions etc great help