Women's & infants' Furnisher, July 19o6. Courtesy of Special Collections, Gladys Marcus Library, Fashion Institute of Technology. fashions, whereas Susan Porter Benson has brought new meaning to the understanding of "shop floor culture" by looking at department stores as places of both work and consumption. In addition, Cheap Club Dress feminist film theorists have developed and brought critical attention to the concept of the "male gaze" as a controlling force in the creation and presentation of popular culture, and other scholars have examined the importance of Hollywood films as popularize of lingerie and fashion generally, Cultural preoccupation with larger-than-life cinematic spectacles and off screen star personas in fan magazines and mainstream press also fostered fascination with glamour, a quality commonly ascribed to lingerie, in the twentieth century. Glamour, wholesale leggings which Lois Banner refers to as the "hallmark" of fashion and Jaekson Leafs sees as pervading "the world of fashion," has long been associated with the "enchantment, illusion, [and] witchery" described in the first issue of Glamour in 1939.

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